Basic Help

Quick answers to the most comonly asked questions For more technical things, including fitting instrutions, and a look here at our technical help pages. Each item we sell has its own page.

Products, Prices and Shipping

Every product we sell has its own page. As well as the normal title and price, it also includes a full description, it will show what models it fits, how many we have in stock and other such things
Should we be out of stock, you can see an expected restocking date, or choose to be notified when we do re stock.
Postage costs are calculated by weight, size, value of your order, and country to post to. Our website has a postage estimator on the shopping cart page. Put simply, if you want to know how much the item(s) you would like to purchase will cost you in postage, add them to your basket. Next visit the shopping cart page, and all shipping options and costs will be shown there.
We do not produce a catalogue as our prices and range are constantly changing, a printed catalogue would be out of date almost as soon as it was printed. You can view all of our products, the full product descriptions and order all of our range of products on our web site.

Basic Running Details

Front 18 / 21 - Rear 28 / 30
In the UK, petrol has now increased to 10%. Ethonal is not two stroke friendly, it attracts water, attacks seals and gaskets, and seperates the oil and fuel.
We suggest using Super Unleaded petrol, as this will remain at 0 or 5% ethonal. It is also becoming an increasing good idea to use an Ethonal treatment, we sell a few types :-
Silkolene Pro 1ltr
Putoline Ethonal Fighter
Silkolene One Shot
Use the best quality of oil you can afford to run. Most well known brands such as Rock Oil, Putoline, Silkolene, Castrol will all have a good quality range of mineral oil, semi syntheric, and full synthetic oil
Mineral OilStandard scooters4% for all models except
D & LD 6%
Semi SyntheticAs above plus :-
Mugello, BGM, GT, Casa, Scootopia, Rapido
Fully SyntheticAs above plus:-
Imola, Monza, TS1, Super Imola, Super Monza, and kit mentioned in semi synthetic which as been further tuned.

Great ways to measure the oil you need :-

An oil measuring jug can take the guess work out of adding the correct amount of oil. These jugs give a 2% mix, so it is easy to add one and a half measures, or two measures depending on the percentage you require.
The SIP Squeeze Fuel-Oil Dispenser features all the different ratios you could need, in a non drip bottle making it clean and simple to use
Our Handi-kans hold 150ml oil of. the exact amount needed for a 3% mix for five litres
All early models including A, B, C, LC, D, LD, E & F run SEA30 in their gearbox. one half a litre will be adequate.
All later models run ST90, again a half a litre is sufficient.
Many owners will notice that in the manuals 0.7 litres is advisable, or fill to the level plug, whilst this is fine you tend to find that to much pressure can build up within the crankcase and put pressure on the oil seals, causing premature failure due to the age of machines. One important note is all S1/2/3 engines, the filler plug is also a breather plug, and care should be made to make sure the breather does not become blocked
City riding
Short journeys
NGK BR7ESDenso IW24Champion N5
Normal RidingNGK BR8ESDenso IW27Champion N4
Long Journeys
Fast Race
NGK BR9ESDenso IW27Champion N3

Basic Model Information

We have a great guide of every Lambretta made here :- Lambretta Guide

Early pre 1957 models, the frame number can be found on the right hand side of the frame. It is on the vertical part, just in front of the rear wheel. The engine number is also found on the right hand side, at the front of the engine near the two large filler plugs. On all S1/2/3 models the frame number is found by taking the kick start side panel off. On the main frame tube under the fuel tank, the frame number is found there. On some very early S1 models, the frame number was further forward nearer the tool box. The frame is always prefix with the model type, EG Li150*123456, and contains six digits. The IGM (Italian type approval number) follows this. Engine numbers can be found on the top of the engine, directly in front of the rear shock absorber mounting, but it is partially covered by the gear linkage and cables.

Where to find your frame number

If you wish to return your scooter to original, more often than not, your best place is to look inside the horn casting, as this paint rarely gets removed or subjected to the elements that makes paint fade. If this is so take it along to your local car (auto) paint supplier who will match it up for you. You will need to chat to the person/company who will carry out the re-spray, to find what kind of paint they use, (i.e. 2K cellulose etc.) also asking the type (speak to them for more details).

If you want to paint your scooter to original specification colours,

General Help

Quick fire settings for adjusting your SIP speedo to the most comon settings
ADJ 1 – MPH for UK, F for farenheight gives highest reading of numbers for accuracy, but this is your choice.
ADJ 2 – INT for speedo cable, or ENT for internal pick up lead or cable sensor
ADJ 3 – 1360-1371.6 tyre circumference
ADJ 4 – Most electronics 1 - Varitronic 2
ADJ 5 – Time 24hr
ADJ 6 – Brightness Max 5.5
ADJ 7 – Just shows mileage no setting required
ADJ 8 – Set mileage from old speedo for continuity

Quick easy wiring questions. The power box has three wires. Red and Black are power in and earth. Brown goes to your lighting circuit as this reads pulses for the Rec counter. Every thing else has its own plug.If your rev counter is not working, make sure you have a resisted spark plug and cap. If you have full CD lights, you will need a specific filter sold seperatly to be able to read from the coil / CDI

Pull the old cable out from the top. Feed the old inner cable from the bottom upwards. Feed the new outer cable over the old inner from the top downwards. When the outer reaches the hole in the forks, it might get stuck. This is why you feed the old inner first, as you can now wiggle the inner from the bottom, and the outer from the top and push it down, it will feed through. Finally take the old outer out, fit new outer off you go!
Drum brakes are not that bad - honest. Most suffer from lack of proper maintenance.
First off de-glaze your drum, years of brake shoes polishing the drum makes it poor.
Fit new quality shoes, adjust and lubricate your cable correctly.
This to remember when upgrading your brakes.

Hydraulic is far superior, almost to good for the Lambretta forks and chassis, With this in mind, your forks need to be upgraded, as the hydraulic can cause a lot of dip in your forks due to how well it works.
So upgrade your forks with progessive uprated springs, new bushes and buffers. You should also fit dampers.
Upside - cheap very effective brakes. Down side almost too effective, so need to upgrade front suspension.

Cable Disc Far East There are two types, exactly as original for use with disc for links, or made for use with original brum links.
We suggest you change the pads, as the factory ones are crap. the mechanism doesn't have as much travel as the original ones, so benefit from packing out the shoes. Because it is from the Far East, the quality is best described as pattern. With careful setting up they will be OK.
Upside - cheap, dont need to change any thing, other then to fit your front wheel rim & tyre, and ride off.
Down side - only marginally more effective then drum.

Disc Italian If you have a drum brake now, you will need to change your fork links. If you are doing that, as above, best to overhaul forks at the same time. The Italian ones come in kit form, so need to be painted, and then built. Couple of things to look out for when building, on the whole better quality control over the Far East, but at twice the price + Upside - original looks - downside for their money they should go together a lot easier then they do.