Kit consists of:

Flywheel, stator, regulator (battery or non battery), C.D.I. unit.

Fitting the stator:

1) Remove the original flywheel and stator, remove diode + battery (if fitted) and H.T. coil. Refer to the Lambretta manual if necessary for this procedure.

2) Secure stator into mag flange as normal, making sure that the studs that secure the mag flange to the engine, the bolts that secure the stator to the mag flange and the clip that secures the stator wires do not sit to proud. Otherwise they will catch on the back of the flywheel. When fitting the stator also make sure that you do not trap the stator wires, crushing them against the mag flange and possibly causing a short circuit. Fit the stator so that the securing 10mm bolts are in the centre of its respective slots.

3) Presuming that your crankshaft taper is in good condition, fit a new woodruff key, and then slot the flywheel on. At this stage do not tighten.

To set ignition timing:

1) You must turn the engine over by rotating the flywheel clockwise and find T.D.C.

2) On the outer edge of the flywheel at approximately two o'clock, you will find an arrow. Tap a notch using a small chisel or any other suitable sharp implement on the edge of the mag flange, right opposite the arrow when the engine is at T.D.C.

3) Now, if you have a timing disc secure it to the flywheel and 21 degrees for GP, 23 degrees all others **, anti-clockwise, and again make a notch in the mag flange right opposite the arrow. If you do not have a timing disc and take a rule and measure 1 1/8 GP, 1 1/4 all others, inches anti-clockwise from the T.D.C. notch and mark the mag flange, again on the outer lip.
** Please note due to differing kits, fuel types and other such variants, we would suggest you contact your cylinder kit supplier for details of what they recommend. For standard machines, most suppliers have found 21 degrees for Li, SX, TV type machines, and 19 for GP. Most performance kits suggest from 16 to 19 degrees, these figures are for your guidance only.

4) Now, if you look at the window on the flywheel (at five o'clock), you will see two small lines inscribed. These two lines have to match up exactly with the line on the black pick up box on the stator, when the arrow on the flywheel is pointing at the 21' or 23 degrees depending on your machine. If the two lines on the flywheel are further round (clockwise) then slacken the 10mm stator bolts and turn the stator clockwise until the timing is correct. Secure stator bolts. If the two lines on the flywheel are in front of the pick up box, mark and then slacken the three 10mm stator bolts and turn stator anti-clockwise until timing is correct. Secure stator bolts. The timing is now set, and will never alter.

5) Secure flywheel to 50n Ibs. If the flywheel does not turn freely then check for cause, (stator bolts, damaged mag flange, twisted crankshaft).

6) Fit flywheel dust cover and circlip. Secure flywheel cowling.

Wiring instructions

You will need an electric drill and 1Omm mounting bolts, or if you have purchased one of our electronic mounting brackets no drilling is required.

1) Fit junction box to the nearside footboard frame leg. Fit H.T. lead to C.D.I. unit, or the LH side of the regulator.

2) Secure the regulator C.D.I, unit somewhere close to the junction box, or on the RH side of the bracket. Make sure that the regulator is well earthed and solidly mounted. It must not be near any heat source. Take the earth wire for the C.D.I. unit and secure under one of its mounting bolts or another suitable earth position.

3) Wire up regulator and C.D.I. with the four wires from the stator unit as per the diagrams, depending on which kit you have purchased.

4) Take the two green wires (joined) from your main wiring loom, these need to be fitted with a lucar terminal and then plugged into the remaining green on the CDI. Makes sure the green that was on your old coil is taped up and not earthed in any way, this wire is no longer used.

5) The three remaining wires in your scooters main loom now need to be joined together. These in turn should be connected to the other terminal on the regulator.

6) Fit the another wire as an earth wire for the regulator.

7) If using a non battery 12V ignition kit and the scooter is fitted with a battery then tape up the battery feed wires, If your machine was previously fitted with 6 volt bulbs then replace with 12 volt ones. If your machine was previously D.C. (with battery) you will also need to change the horn to an A.C. type.

7a) If you have a battery electronic kit, please refer to the appropriate wiring for further instructions.

8) Check for spark, start engine and check lights.

Wiring Diagram for standard non battery electronic

Wiring Diagram for standard auxillery battery electronic

Wiring Diagram for standard standard battery electronic

Having problems with your SIL electronic kits? Well one thing is for sure, your not alone, it is probably the most comon question we get asked, help with SIL electronic kits.

THE most important fact about setting up electronic kits, you MUST make use of a strobe timing gun to check and set up your timing correctly. Please dont assume the setting you do by DTI gauge, timing disc, or other method will be acurate, as the problems lie in the manufacture of the kits, not always the way you set them up. If in any doubt, we still have fitting instructions on our site, as it is amazing how many suppliers sell their kits with either inacurate or non existant instructions.

Fault Finding and the things your supplier wont admit to!

There are two tests you need to do in checking if your stator plate is functioning properly, it involoves using a multi meter, so if you have not got one, can you beg borrow, but dont steal one :-))

Discounect all four wires from the stator, with the multi meter on a 2K setting, touch the black earth probe to the mag housing. You then need to take readings from the Green and Red wire.

Green wire should read around 400 or just below
Red (sometimes yellow) wire should read between 100 to 110
Whilst your scooter will run when this reading is between 90 to 110, we have heards of running problems when below 100. These include missfire, poor hot starting etc. Genuine Piaggio pick ups always give readings above 100, and rarely give problems.

Many problems occur at different times, the most comon is all will appear correct and OK from cold, but when the scooter warms up or you go on a run, it starts to play up. This is because many faults are caused by poor connections, or breaks. As things warm up, they expand, thus if you have a poor connection or a break in the wire, this problem or fault occurs as everything expands.
If your problems occur when hot, we would suggest you try to recreate the problem, ie by getting the scooter warm, when it plays up, try to take the above ohms meter readings again.

If from hot and cold, the settings appear to be correct, suspect the CDI unit.
The CDI unless you have expensive testing equipment, the best way to test is by simple replacement, borrow one from a friends set up that you know to work correctly, and try again
If the readings are correct on the stator, but you have swap tested the CDI with one that is known to work, turn your attention back to the stator.

You will need to inspect it this time, as on certain faults such as when cold its fine, when hot it plays up, these may or may not give correct readings.

The most comon faults on SIL electronic stators are as follows

1) The flywheels are not unknown to be slight out of true, this can cause the flywheel to "hit" or rub up against the black pick up box. This causes damage on the pick up, and thus it does not send out a signal to spark. Replace, making sure it has no chance of touching the flywheel, but still needs to be close enough to the magnets of the flywheel to create power.

2) Where the Green is soildered onto the Low Tension (LT) coil, it is done so through the black plastic surround of the windings. It is not uncomon for the black plastic to be to high, when the flywheel rotates, it clips the black plastic, and loosens the Green wiring giving intermitant connection or total loss.

3) Wires can get trapped when fitting under the stator, or by the wire retaining clip. Check for damage.

4) The LT coil itself can have cracks or small breaks in its windings, this is very hard to spot. Even if you carry out a continuaty test, it does not always show up as being faulty, but it can be enough of a break to stop your scooter running correctly. Test from hot and cold, if in doubt replace.

5) The quality of the soildered joints can sometimes be poor, or dry. Dry joints in soildering will always give you problems, unsoilder and re soilder all joints is the only cure!